Soldering Iron Temperature: A UK Settings Guide
Short answer: The right soldering iron temperature for most UK electronics is about 330–350°C for leaded solder and 350–400°C for lead-free. Drop to 300–320°C for fine surface-mount parts and go up to 380–410°C for large joints, but always start low and raise only if the solder will not flow.
When a final-year project board is due and the lab is shut, the last thing you need is a cold joint or a lifted pad because the iron was set wrong. Getting the temperature right is most of the battle, so keep this chart to hand and you will avoid the common mistakes.
Quick temperature chart
| Job or solder type | Tip temperature |
|---|---|
| Leaded solder (60/40, 63/37), general electronics | 330–350°C |
| Lead-free solder (SAC) | 350–400°C |
| Fine SMD and heat-sensitive parts | 300–320°C |
| Through-hole and medium joints | 350–380°C |
| Ground planes, thick wire, large connectors | 380–410°C |
| Desoldering | 360–400°C |
Why temperature matters
Too little heat and the solder never fully wets the joint, leaving a dull, cracked cold joint that fails later. Too much heat and you cook components, lift pads and shorten the life of your tip. The set temperature is not the solder's melting point — it is roughly 100°C higher, because the iron has to heat the copper pad and the lead as well as the solder itself.
Leaded vs lead-free
Leaded solder (60/40 or 63/37) melts at around 183–190°C and is the forgiving choice, so 330–350°C suits most work. Lead-free (SAC alloys) melts higher, around 217–227°C, and does not wet as easily, so it needs a hotter iron at 350–400°C. If your solder is balling up and not flowing, lead-free at too low a setting is a common cause.
Start low and do not overheat
Always begin at the lower end and raise the temperature only if the solder is slow to flow. Going much past about 400°C damages components and burns the tip's coating, so a hotter setting is rarely the fix — better technique, flux and the right tip size usually are. A temperature-controlled iron is what lets you set these figures accurately in the first place.
Getting accurate, steady temperatures
An uncontrolled iron drifts, which is exactly how a wrongly oriented QFP or a 0603 part gets overheated during rework. The YIHUA 992DA+ holds its set point with PID control that samples every 20ms to about ±1°C, across a 200–480°C iron range that covers every job in the chart, plus a 650W hot-air channel for surface-mount work — from UK stock for £273.78.
Ready for a station that keeps up? The YIHUA 992DA+ 4-in-1 hot-air rework and soldering station covers soldering, desoldering and SMD rework in one unit.
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Need to fix a part you fitted the wrong way round? See our hot air rework guide, or plan a full bench with our soldering iron kit guide.
Frequently asked questions
What temperature should a soldering iron be for electronics?
For general electronics use about 330 to 350°C with leaded solder and 350 to 400°C with lead-free. Drop to 300 to 320°C for fine surface-mount parts and go up to 380 to 410°C for large joints and thick wire.
What temperature for lead-free solder?
Lead-free solder needs about 350 to 400°C because it melts higher (around 217 to 227°C) and does not wet as easily as leaded solder. If it is balling up rather than flowing, the setting is probably too low.
Why is my solder not melting or flowing?
Usually the tip is too cool, dirty or oxidised, or you are using lead-free at a leaded temperature. Clean and re-tin the tip, add flux, and raise the setting a little, but avoid going much past 400°C.
Can a soldering iron be too hot?
Yes. Above about 400°C you risk damaging components, lifting pads and burning the tip coating, which shortens tip life. Start low, use flux and the right tip size, and raise the temperature only if the solder will not flow.